Thursday, September 30, 2010
September 20: A lost battle today. Starting late, we were set upon by gusty headwinds, gnawing chill, needle spray showers, and deep gray hills. added to this the fact that I had had so little calories in the last 24 hours was all it took to not make it to Williston. We had to settle for permission to camp in a small town park in Ray, ND. Thanks to icing on the cake, state troopers telling us we couldn't ride on the small paved shoulder because it was freaking out the truckers and had too ride the last ten miles to ray on a gravel track in the dark. Finally getting to Ray, I forged out in three egg sandwiches at a roadside Ice cream shop called Snow White. We ate and pedaled throughout the dark searching for the school house we were to camp behind. I pitched my tent cursing frequently as gusts of wind constantly shifted my tent and ground cloth. We said goodnight and I passed out to the lullaby of the angry North Dakota winds.
September 20: Woke up early to pouring rain, broke down camp quickly, but we had to wait under a picnic shelter to dry off the tents. It took forever and all the while I'm starving! Finally, we get them dry enough to pack and go to breakfast. Unfortunately, the cafe we were recommended had move to the lunch menu. All I could get was a skimpy veggie burger (actually the only one I'd found in a thousand miles) and fried cauliflower. after we went to the library to try to find a place to stay in Williston. I put out a call to everyone from Couch Surfer and a girl named Haley called back and said although she was in Hawaii, she'd find is a place and she did. With at least that, we set off finally in the afternoon. (Not a good start.)
September 19: We went back to the first bar and grabbed another couple of pitchers. We got to meet and hang out with a lot of people our age who were in the area because of the oil boom that had been going on for the last fee years. tons if money but a crisis in housing, the boom extended into Poplar, MT with the nexus being Williston, ND, right where we were aiming for the next day. Good luck trying to find a place to crash and watch out for all the trucks on the road was the general sentiment expressed by everyone. They invited us to another bar, loading our bikes in a pickup and off we went. Jesse, a structural engineer fresh out if college and Colorado who was there for the work bought us a pitcher. We closed the bar down, which in North Dakota means only 1am, and Jessie dropped us and the bikes off at the town campgrounds.
September 19: Left Minot and rocked the fifty mile trip to Stanley, ND: fifty miles in about four hours with full gear! it was a great ride. Chilly but no wind with rolling hills and a beautiful fall landscape. got to Stanley and had to hunt down food. We found the campgrounds on the way to this bar that still had there grill going. Sam got a steak while I got some potato salad and half of a pitcher of beer. We left to try to find more food. The next bar had pizza but if course as the nasty bartender rudely barked out, all of it had meat on it. Sam grabbed one and a beer, while I jumped on the bike to find something I could eat. I had to settle for a protein bar and a bag of pretzels at the gas station off the highway.
September 19: Tracy tried Sam's back tire while he told us stories of his Time on the Air Force Recumbent Bike Team. He let me ride his recumbent, a Ice Trice, and I may be in love with a new style of bike for long distance riding (such a comfortable ride). With the tire fixed, Sam apologized for not being able to stay and we loaded up, said our goodbyes, and headed out of Tracy's by 3pm.
September 19: Woke up to a nice hot shower and bike maintenance. Tracy look over Sam's rear tire, while I lubed my chain and checked everything. Beside loose spokes, Sam's real problem was that his rear tire had warn itself out. Tracy offered to drive us to the bike shop when it opened at noon. We had a phenomenal breakfast of eggs, hash browns, melon, , fresh baked croissant, cereal, and Wisconsin cheese curds, while we hung out and got to know tracy's wife and four wonderful children. After eating, we hopped into the pickup and went to the bike shop to get Sam a new tire.
September 18: Pounded our way Northwest to Minot. it was chilly but a lot warmer than yesterday. The wind wasn't in our favor and Sam began having rear tire issues again. The flatlands gave way to beautiful rolling hills and rises across the landscape. We got into the city under darkness, coming to our Warm Showers host, Tracy's, split level home before nine. Tracy got us settled in the mostly finished basement: each a room with a bed, wager/drier, hit shower, and a fridge full of beer! Even better Tracy's wife made us an amazing stew. She made a veggie batch just for me. Soooooo good! It's been hard getting good healthy eats since leaving Illinois. Tracy went to a wine tasting next door, and we settled in. I got Sam to stay up long enough to do a load of laundry before, exhausted, Sam the Man passed out. Drank some beer, plotted and wrote letters until Tracy got home . We talked for a little while about politics and the world, and idioms out that Boulder, CO, a city I love, was burning. Tracy invited us to stay a day and I told him I'd mention it to Sam.
Saturday, September 18, 2010
September 16th: Decided to stay in Harvey, ND because of thunderstorm warning, ten miles less then proposed stop point for the day. Came in to town supermarket to fund a party. got fed for free and met a lot of great people. They warned us of a freeze over tomorrow. We might have to stay an additional day.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
September 15: Met a really cool gentleman by the name of Les Oddlen outside the Post Office. Started talking about the trip and he told us he admired us. We parted company, and I went to the sports store for another pair of wool socks, while Sam was marking a waypoint. When I got out of the store Sam was getting interviewed by the Jamestown Sun. Apparently, Les went to the paper and told them about us. Plus he found Sam and donated $20 to the trip. After we got done with the reporter (he interviewed me too), Les made a final appearance. From out of his pockets he withdrew two ziplock bags filled with fresh cinnamon dried apple crisps. He also gave us a North Dakota commemorative quarter, apologizing for only having one. I let Sam keep it for Shani. We waved fondly to Les as he drove away and began the days journey. All be it super late today, but what a great guy!
September 14: If you ever get the chance, stop in Ellendale, ND. It's a a nice little town and the first town you hit after South Dakota. There's a steakhouse called Fireside that has a very vegetarian friendly salad bar, and all the food is made with fresh ingredients. Even better is the Ellendale Opera House. Built in 1904, the venue hosted Army regiments and passing dignitaries before falling into obscurity and disrepair. Recently, thanks to lobbying and petitioning, the restoration board has received a sizable amount in grants from rotors including the historic society to bring the opera house back to it's former glory. Linda, one of the board members, who we had the good fortune to run into gave us a tour of the building. Such an amazing space full of potential. We talked a little shop after I told her about what I do in Brooklyn and at Irondale. She offered me a job citing the low cost of living in North Dakota as am advantage. I jokingly asked if there was a college in town so I could go back to teaching English too. She replied that there used to be a university but now it's hydra bible college. I crossed my fingers and said I'd consider the offer.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
September 14: If you ever get the chance, stop in Ellendale, ND. It's a a nice little town and the first one you hit after South Dakota. There's a steakhouse called Fireside that has a very vegetarian friendly salad bar and all the food is from fresh ingredients. Even better still is the Ellendale Opera House. Built in 1904, the magnificent building hosted many an army regiment and or passing line of dignitaries before falling into obscurity and disrepair. They recently lobbyist and petioles for about two million in grants from donors and the historic society to restore the building. We met Linda who is on the restoration board and she gave us a tour. Such a beautiful space with so much potential. I told her about what I do in Brooklyn and about Irondale. She offered me a job, citing the cheaper cost if living out here. I crossed my fingers and said I'd think about it.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
September 8: We arrived, sopping, cold and soggy, but safely at are Wa Showers host's apartment. His name is Travis and he is an avid tourer. At 29, he also is about halfway between Sam and I in age, which is nice. He helped us settle in our bikes down in the basement and bring all our gear up to his third floor apartment. We stow all the wet stuff in the tub and change out of our wet spongewear clothing. Sam and I decided that we need to slim down and prep more for the Northwestern Rockies plus the fact that at this moment, I have a barely functioning tent, so we decide to take tomorrow off.
September 8: A nice guy and fellow biker named Dan offered us a dry spot to fix the flat but we thought we went to the wrong house, so we left and I started changing it under a bank drive through. Dan found us, approaching with a standing pump. He gave us some good advice as for the lay of the land. Where shops were and a less congested way to get where we need to be.
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
We made it to Round Lake, Minnesota last night only to find out that the campgrounds have new owners who only let people with yearly passes camp there. Over dinner, I called the county sheriff and we got permission to stay at the town park. He said no problem and to boot the man who is in charge of the park upkeep, Bruce, unlocked the bathrooms and turned on the power for is so we had electricity.
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Flat number seven. Poor Sam has not had a lucky week with his back tire. Why oh why do you dislike us Gods of Iowa? All your denizens we meet seem to really like us, and we are trying to leave the state as soon as we can. Fifteen more miles and you wouldn't have to see me again until next July. Heck, you may never have to see Sam again. Really not cool Iowa.
September 6th: Lazy day. Honestly, we didn't do much today at all, which was kind of glorious. We stayed in the room most of the day doing our own thing. Sam drew and made some phone calls, while I sent pictures, went through gear, plotted, read, and wrote. We watch a movie. Again, glorious. It seems like it's been a long time since we've been able to just do that.
September 5th: Due to the holiday, the bike shop is closed on Monday. This means that we're spending a whole day in Spencer. After dinner, I biked ahead to the motel to check in. There I met Ruth, the manager, who I think is the nicest person I have ever met. I'm serious. she was incredibly helpful and accommodating.
September 5th: It just doesn't end for us in Iowa! We were making great time to our next destination Spencer when Sam began noticing a deterioration in the balance and stability of his back tire. Upon examination, he found that a substantial number of spokes on the replacement rim were loose and warped. Continuing on, we made it about 14 miles from Spencer before it became so bad that Sam had to disengage the rear brake for the bike to move. I told Sam that we should hitch him a ride into town but Sam wanted to walk out of principle (we have a difference of opinion on this one. I felt that if his bike was broke that gives him a valid reason to catch a ride the last miles of the day to fix it. Sam felt that every mike on the trip has to be done under his own locomotion). Time and the now dwindling day time led Sam to coast and finally pedal the bike in with me bringing up the rear. Luckily, we made it just into town when the bike became completely unrideable. Sam pushed it the last mile in while I scouted ahead for the bike shop and all you can eat buffets.
Sunday, September 5, 2010
September 5th: We got a little reprieve on our Iowa blues. After patching the Bob flat, we began our exit route out of Rolfe when looking to my right I spied with my little eye a huge rocking horse. We had to investigate, so after dismounting, we walked over to it. There we met Dan, who along with his brother, Reg, are the founders and creators of Bud Barn. What is Bud Barn? Just one of the craziest guy handouts/Budweiser homages you'll find anywhere in the Union. Besides the horse, which is the second largest in the world and the largest working one, the property is adorned with several mammoth sculptures and structures, all built by Dan and his brother. Really amazing stuff.
So we finally got a little squeeze on the trip. The bar we camped behind last night was the spot. everyone was very nice but what's the saying, mornings free? At the end of the night, we got way over charged and yes, we were drinking on the super cheap. Sucks but you live, you learn, and you got to keep loving. Still we're ready to get the hell out of Iowa.
Saturday, September 4, 2010
We got to ride Three Rovers Trail today. a beautiful 32 mile ex-rail line that's been converted into a bike/horse/hike trail. Great except when you stopped and got swarmed upon. The name was Three Rovers but more appropriately it should be three rivers, fifteen steams, seven bogs, three marshes, and a million Mosquitos and gnats. Amazing ride though.
So yeah, we didn't get very far yesterday in our adventure. Something great thar happened though is that we landed in Latimer, ia at a great bar/restaurant called Mom's Place. Sam finally got his steak he'd been craving, while I threw back a whiskey or two. We had received permission from the mayor of town to setup camp in the town park, but as we were talking to the bartender Landon, he offered us his grandfather's recently vacated home for the night. We jumped at the offer, and stuck around Mom's meeting and talking to a gaggle of the town residents. A great ending to a windy wall of a day.
Friday, September 3, 2010
The people of Iowa have been wonderful. The land itself though has been less gracious. Some things to know about Iowa: it's not flat...at all. Miles after miles of rolling hills twisting for hundreds of miles. Also, storms sweep in quick and fierce. Lastly, at only 7% forestation, there's very little cover from the wind, and it is very windy here.
If everyone can give a moment of silence in their day to day. A friend of mine Bob Bowen, was hit by a truck last Thursday in a hit and run. After fighting for his life Bob past on Monday. Besides being one if the nicest people you could meet, Bob was a talented and accomplished standup bassist. He is survived by his two children. They still have not caught the driver, so if anyone can provide helpful information about the accident, please do so.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Today was a day of defeat. We started both sluggish with low moral for me and indifferent moral for Sam. Road problems for Sam and a sore ass for me just exasperated it. The rim was the final straw for the day. We decided to call it an early one today, so we could settle in and regroup before the heavy rains and thunderstorms set in for the night.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)