Saturday, October 23, 2010
October 23: What do we do upon standing at the gates of a temporary paradise? I know that I'm breaking sequential order in the sequence but I must ask each other what do we remain to virtue when we have held sacred had proven...unreliable, all to easily giving up when anything gets a little tough. cowards!!! Stand and fight you red simperings.
Friday, October 15, 2010
October 8: Got up and dressed, gathering my wet items in a plastic bag as I packed. Talked a bit to Ken who then left for work. I mounted up, and took off again down highway 2. I was a bit slow in my going, my knee tight from the moisture still in the air. I reached the outskirts of Spokane and proceeded to wander hoping my natural direction sense would get me there. Highway 2 became Division Street and posted no biking notices, so I had to turn off. I had some really bad Mexican and after about ten miles of wandering found myself at my Warm Shower host's, Mary, house. Still at work her housemates let me in and told me Mary would be home soon and would be making dinner. laundry, shower, the usual right into port. Things I'm so accustomed to doing right away it's rote. Being clean is still my biggest guilty pleasure on the road. after, I walked to the supermarket to get hair gel. Mary came home and we had a big breakfast as dinner meal of eggs, potatoes fresh bread and some wine. We talked a little Mary, myself, her housemate Tessa and Tessa's fourteen year old son, Michael. Gathering my clean cloths following dinner, I retired to my room for an early Friday night. To bed and warm relaxing sleep.
October 7: It's dark. It's wet. I've been biking for miles in the night and the rain and I still have 19 miles before Spokane. The shoulder's wide bulky the weather is miserable. I stop in the town before Spokane, Riverside only to find no lodging just a grocery. Things seem bleak but just as I find the needles of despair poking against my side, in comes a gentleman, named Ken, who after conversating about my trip offers me a spot in an RV he uses for storage on his property. My one question is if it's dry and I'm sold. I go to gather food for dinner while he smiles a stoge and waits to give me directions. when I come to the counter the clerk girl Lindsay brings me a bunch of extra food insisting I take it for my trip. I tell her I'm a veggie but I will take the macaroni salad. She smiles heats up and wraps the pizza I bought and gives me a card insisting I send her and the girls a postcard when I get where in going. Ken gives me the directions saying he'll come back and find me if I get lost, which I did and he did. We hang out and talk for a bit on his porch and I meet his wife, then into the trailer I got stripping and hanging my wet layers before cold and damp can seep into my bones. another day that providence has blessed me with fair fortune and I fall asleep dry, warm and thankful.
October 7: I woke up to the proper Pacific Northwest welcoming: Rain! I tried to wait it out a little, sending pictures and writing notes. Norm went to the computer lab to complete his homework for class. Finally with the rain continuing, I packed up and headed over to the vegetarian cafe and tea house in town called Common Knowledge to spoil myself on some long awaited goodies. The food was great although it took a whole, the clock ticking away the hours of the day. Great vegan cookies!! I was about to leave when a patron, Clark struck up a conversation and bought me tea. We chatted for an hour before I said I had to leave. The conversation was great and among other things I found out that I was lucky in where I was in Idaho as the rest if the state was not so hip. To have all the time in the world, but with the time at two thirty and seventy miles still to go, I began pedaling in the steady drizzle.
October 6: A scary way into town. I found myself biking in the darkness for Sandpoint, little shoulder to ride and heavy traffic in the darkness. To make matters worse I still have no music and no reply from anyone from couch surfer besides a guy named Joel, who's in California but gave me some spots to look for people to put me up. Fifteen miles down and I get to civilization but I'm actually in the strip mall suburb of Sandpoint not the city itself. I grab a bite, talk to Joel who gives me directions and points out a great pub where I might find someone named Eikhardt's. I finally get there and order a sampler of local brews. Some very tasty local one at that. Although distant at first the bartender Bob starts to warm up to me as we along with this patron named Norm get to talking. Norm lives outside of town but is housesitting his friends place just down the street. he offers me some floor space and I take it as I order us a round of beers. We stayed for another hour talking and sipping our beers, Bob, Norm, and two bikers named Chris and Dave who are driving through all offering route suggestions and topography hints. We leave and walk back to the apartment, Norm helping me carry my bike up the landing as it begins to rain. We spend the rest of the evening in enjoyable conversation mostly over geography. The big surprise is though when I find out that the person he's housesitting for is actually Joel from couch surfer. I laughed myself quietly to sleep that night over the small world irony of the moment.
October 6: Flat number nine! Another for the rear tire, big surprise, but this proved to be the most enjoyable flat of the trip. I pulled off in from of this multicolored bright market in the town of East Hope. It was another pebble rolling against the tube flat, which are the worst because you can't save the tube as the problem is a series of small punctures along a horizontal line. Sad too because this particular tube had lasted over eight hundred miles. As I was changing the tire, a pick up pulled up and killed the engine. Out popped JT, a geologist by schooling, a cook and proprietor of the cafe in the market. The mostly vegetarian cafe. We get to talking and I help him move a stove into the kitchen. He shows me around his garden and the property. The market is more like an art community house, hosting classes, visiting artist and gallery space. JT offers me a place to crash, but with my busted phone still buzzing in my head, I know I need to make Sandpoint tonight, and so decline. As I'm finishing my tire off JT comes out and gives me a sparkling orange drink and a hummus and fresh organic greens sandwich. This is the first veggie and hummus goodness sandwich I've had in thousands of miles and I devoured it greedily a little down the road, ignoring the wizzing by cars and the fading sunlight bouncing off the waters of Pend Oreille Lake.
October 6: The first leg of the day, phone calamity aside, was beautiful. Challenging as all, but the ranges and lakes that surrounded me were breathtaking. Green luck giants, cradling myself, the road, and, one after the other, a succession of crisp light dappled clear blue lakes. There were some houses but hardly any civilization for the first fifty miles. Just water, green, asphalt, and me.
October 6: Technological injury! As I was pedaling early at the start of the day, my headphone wire snagged, jerking my phone from my hand. The poor thing bounced onto the pavement cracking the back in a thin ice display of jagged lines. Nothing seamed to be broken, but as I rode on the voice controls started activating on their own. After an hour, I found myself without music: horrible for me as my tunes have been my companions the whole journey. I continued on in silence. My pace effected by both the event and the quiet now surrounding me.
Thursday, October 14, 2010
October 5: Day two through the Rockies and this one made the first look like a breeze. The climbs were steeper and longer, the downhills shorter and more gradual. Tom make matters worse was the knowledge that I was being forced further North out of my way due to the mountains. Thirty miles of road connecting through would have saved me about a days ride. Oh well! Despite this, I matched my miles from the Divide day putting in another ninety through the mountains. The other positive is that it was another day of shear beauty, cradled in the arms of ranges to my left and right. I reached Libby around sunset, and checking my messages for the day (no service again) met the Ivers at a small Mexican restaurant. They treated me to dinner and I got to say it probably was the best Mexican I had since leaving Brooklyn. it was tasty, no frills, solid and cheap. Over dinner, we discussed routes and talked of Libby. The town was extremely depressed, to the point of death moans nearly. Founded on mining and timber, Libby had lived to see both evaporate into near nothing. To add to this the town's other big business an Asbestos plant, which ironically had supplied the asbestos for the World Trade Center, had also closed down, leaving not only many out of work but also poisoned and sick with no hope of recourse as the local judge, his pockets thick with payoff cash, had dismissed the bulk of any clowns as coincidental. Keith Ivers, an Assistant Principal, had seen his school shrivel as the mass exodus from the town flowed steadier than the Libby River, it's namesake. Next year they'd be closing one of the school buildings down because of lack of need.
October 5: I wake early and start baking having prepped the food the night before. Taking advantage of Jim's pullup bar, I get some sets in while I have the chance and shower before sitting down with Jim to eat. I know he likes it because he has seconds. Jim departs and I ready my gear to leave. The sky is clear and the only annoyance as I pack and load out is the constant barking of Jim's Great Dane/ Labrador mix, Orion, (the dog barked the whole Tim I was there practically, very territorial). It didn't help that after I was packed and ready to go, I looked down to see that I'd left my water bottles inside the house. I had just got down telling Orion he was an asshole (Jim's endearing words about his dog, not mine) seconds before. With that, I began the ascent out of Kalispell.
October 4: I wake to the steady patter sounds of rain against the small window next to where I'm sleeping. I talk to Jim for a bit as he gets ready for work. Most of the morning, I spend plotting, working out and making to get lists. I finally venture out to wander in the early afternoon when the rain finally does down a little bit. Wandering Kalispell is interesting as it seems to be a little but lovely historic frontier town strip at it's center surrounded by strip malls radiating out in every direction. On my lists of things to do I have the library to research, where I meet a woman running for office who invites me to speak with the mother of a death row inmate (unfortunately, I can't find the damn coffee shop they were meeting at), the town's Salvation Army in my never ending quest to find a sturdy, warm yet somewhat fashionable wool sweater (no luck again), Wallmart for a cheap replacement tire for my back wheel (the last Bell I got there lasted about a thousand miles but was starting to wear down in the center), and the grocers for deodorant, sunblock and ingredients to make an egg bake for Jim and I in the morning. Missions accomplished, I grab some food and go to the Moose Saloon to taste some local beers and shovel down some peanuts. Moose is great no liquor just beer, half sawdust on the floor (literally) dive bar, half pizza serving public house. I recommend it if you pass through Kalispell.
October 3: It's crazy how long I've been from a sizable city. Kalispell's 30,000 seems a juggernaut in my eyes right now. I haven't had reception for the last two days, so it's really short notice when I finally get to connect with my warm showers host Jim. Despite this, he's still gracious and accommodating, setting me up in his gear room which is filled with climbing gear, wood cores, and biking jerseys. Jim, a general mountaineer is a former bike racer and tourer. His walls tell of some of his exploits which include the adventure cycling bicentennial ride of 76' and a tour from Des Moines to Alaska. Thunderstorms are brewing and Jim says I can stay tomorrow if I need to. We talk a little but Jim, a lawyer, has some homework for tomorrow's clients, so he bids me a good night and leaves me to my own meanderings.
October 3: The day of the Divide had finally come! Thanks to Sam the Ranger's rundown, I knew exactly what to expect. The ascent was beautiful and it was hard not to stop every three seconds to tale a picture. Until reaching the divide, i hadn't realized how deeply i had missed the forest. It was in some strange way closer to home then I had been in a very long while. I reached the summit and start the descent. Awesome downhill. I was definitely cruising over sixty mph for quite a bit. Reaching the base, the rest if the ride consisted of rolling climbs and plunges until left Glacier Park and began riding through more urbanized settings. From Columbia Falls on, I never left commercialized strips. Quite a contrast to the majesty of the morning.
Wednesday, October 13, 2010
October 2: I stand at the ankles if the Rockies in East Glacier Park Village. The plains are finally behind me and I'm excited to tackle the Continental Divide tomorrow. The couple I'm staying with Sam and Jo are amazing and generous people. They even have a tent platform in the backyard for cyclists. Dinner was delicious: Salad! Real salad with veggies, potato pancakes, grilled winter squash, homemade apple sauce, cider and huckleberry wine (which is tasty). I felt so good putting all those delicious things into me. The conversation was equally as enjoyable and we hung out after my shower talking until bed. Sam is a park ranger, professor an emt and he offer quite a bit of insight for me of what lied ahead on tomorrows ride. I went to bed feeling confident and comfortable and ready.
October 2: I got to Browning finally and stopped for a drink. Now the whole time I'd been going everyone had warned me about Browning. Don't go there. Don't even stop. Of course it being me, I got to stop. I didn't stay long so maybe I mosses out on the full effect, but everyone I met there were great. nice, polite, and interesting. As a pedaled out of the city, all I could really find was that it was filled with poor, proud people. Makes me wonder what people would say about a lot of places I lived.
October 2: It was an easy ride up until Cut Bank. As I left the city I dropped down in elevation at the river only to have to climb back to 3000 feet rapidly. As I reached the top I crossed into Blackfoot Nation and found myself atop the Plateau. The next six hours were some of the hardest riding I did on the whole trip. The area was the barren yellow rolling fields seen all along Eastern Montana. A few grazing animals, mostly horses dotting the landscape. What was present and fiercer than ever was the wind, directly set against me and wailing on at about 35 mph. I later found out that it's not unusual for the winds here to reach a hundredth and I was lucky that it was such a calm day. either way it took me what seemed like days to make it the thirty plus miles to the city of Browning. At one point, a conductor got out of his train while he was waiting for an eastbound train to pass and gave me a bottle of water. His be was Chris and he said that he'd been pacing me and despite me pedaling like the devil, I was only going about eight miles an hour.
October 1: The ride to Shelby was epic in distance though luckily uneventful in incident. For the first and only time on the Highline did the wind gather behind me. I cruised completing 106 miles in less than nine hours. I like to call the trip the day of the fifteen towns passing, because that's how many I cruised through, the closest concentration on the whole highway. I got into town and eventually found the super cheap hotel I was going to crash at. really it was more like a hostile or dorm suite as the bathroom was communal. I went to the supermarket for dinner again returning to my room to eat. it's frustrating because you try to eat healthy and it winds up costing you more. I could have gone to eat at some Chinese buffet or junk dive and spent nine bucks but to eat healthy at the store I needed to shell out fourteen. like I said frustrating.
September 30: The rest of the day in Havre was quite rejuvenating. I wandered all around the small town, sometimes taking pictures but mostly just looking. It had been a while since I had been able to wander a city and I realized that day that it had been too long. After, I bought groceries, ate in my room, and drifted off early to bed.
September 30: Woke in pretty good shape despite last nights festivities. first things first, ran over to the bike shop and pulled the owner away from a siding job to open up and replace my cable. Next headed back and packed everything, and went for food. The place had stopes serving breakfast, and left me with very little to eat, basically a grilled cease sandwich. As I was finishing my food, my friend called and we got into a lengthy discussion about the problems and pitfalls of our country. An hour later, I'm still hungry and it's getting late. I go into this taco joint I ate at yesterday and order some more food while weighing my options. Rather than go to a small town and risk getting caught out in nowhere I decide to stay the day and start early and bike far.
Thursday, October 7, 2010
September 29: A big day of pedaling to get to Havre, the largest city on the Highline before the divide. I got into town feeling adventurous again, closer to myself than I had been since Sam left. After dinner, I did some prep work: pictures, seat adjustment, tried to fix my rear shifter cable. Unable to repair the last, I went to the local bar next door. despite the warnings about Havre, I found it very chill. The people were friendly and the whiskey cheap. Spent a part of the night talking to a real cowboy named John about horses.
September 28: Camping in the Malta town park was a little sketchy. Whole I was cooking dinner in the windy dark night, this meth head kept walking by. Later, I was in my tent a group of heads drive up to get high in the public rests. You hear the darndest things on the other side of the thin walls of a tent. Learning from my last trip to the Bahamas, I slept with my cell gripped in one hand and my hatchet in the other. As the signs say on the Sioux Rez, Meth Hiyah! luckily nothing happened besides a little less sleep and a forty minute bout with the town sprinklers spraying alarmingly close to my tent.
September 28: Woke up sluggish and unsure. I felt weak from recovery and homeward sentimental and somewhat defeatist in my outlook. Despite that, I started pedaling. the wind was insistent and naggingly pushing against my head and feet the whole day, and for the first forty miles, I was of a pitiful character. The fifty miles had taken seven and half hours and with the already late start of checkout or 11 am, I found myself twenty one miles still away with an hour of day light left. I got to a point where there was an opportunity to turn off and cut the day short, but doing so would either add miles another day or put me behind again. for me it became a deeper thought, if I stopped now there and then and didn't make Malta, I wasn't going to keep going. it scared me because I'm so close to finishing the crossing (relatively speaking, what's a thousand miles or so?!) and what would it mean to give up now. I couldn't do that and so I kept going, my pedaling growing stronger as I filled my lungs with air and determination. The wind slowed me still but I pushed through in the fading light, and continued to go forward as the gravely shoulder of the road became shrouded in the cloudy dark night. The wind finally died about five miles before town and the chill settled into consistency. Trucks and pick ups and sedans whizzing by two or three for every mile or so, and for the first time since Sam's been gone I'm happy. Biking with a smile even. It's like I rediscovered that I'm out here because I want to be out here. Sometimes it is miserable, yes, monotonous, and stark, but at the same time most of it is often astonishing and winding, new yet redeeming, genuine but surreal. The path goes ever on, it's you who chooses to get on an off. That day was the closest I came to quitting.
September 27: Woke up in the middle of the night with a sore throat, congestion and a fever. Although the fever broke by mid morning. I decided to stay the day in Glasgow. What also helped is I had a thirty dollar motel room, so if I needed to hold up somewhere inside, this was my cheapest option. Stayed in bed, slept, watched the veg box, and moped admittedly a little to myself about homesickness, venturing out only for food.
September 26: Visited the Glasgow Bile Shop or as the owner likes to call it The Museum of Klunnkers and Ancient Bicycles. The shop's origins lie in the owner's love of bicycle mechanics and tinkering. For years, he spent taking in Junkers and throw aways repairing them, selling a few and storing most in his garage. finally, his wife and partner, suggested the bikes some where else after she found herself unable to park the car in the garage anymore. They had a second little green two story house on Glasgow's main strip that they had bought out of foreclosure, and this the shop was born. Average price range for a bike there 50-100 bucks.
Wednesday, October 6, 2010
September 26: Just visited the Glasgow bike shop which is owned and operated by a sweet old husband and wife duo. The business started out as the husband just repairing junker bikes he found and keeping them , occasionally selling one or two. Soon the garage filled up and they couldn't get their car in, so she made him move the bikes to a property they owned on the main strip in town. Thus the Glasgow Bike Shop was born or as the owner likes to call it, the museum of old wrecks and heaps. average range for bikes at the shop 50-100 bucks, all quality restored.
Saturday, October 2, 2010
September 25: The brewery, Missouri Breaks, was great. Such a nice feel, this place could have been cut out and transported to any major beer loving city. the home batches were tasty too. I recommend the Belchin' Ale. I met a bunch of great people including Mark, Press, Suzie-Q, Cody, Johnny, and the owner, Doc Z's (who is also the town's MD and originally from Syracuse), daughter and assistant brewer, Jessica. I also got to avoid find accommodations by running into Paul, the couch surfer contact I'd emailed but got no response from in town. he never got an email and didn't know about me but said immediately agreed to pit me up for the night. I ran over to a local mom and pop for dinner that had been owned and operated by the same family since 1927. I got to talk to three generations of family about the town and the cafe as I waited for my food. after that, I ran back to the brewery and Paul dropped me off at his place and went to dinner at his Aunts. Freshened up and watched tv with him and his sister Jenny after he returned until I started to doze.
September 25: I get up and I'm all packed and ready to go before nine. I stop at the local diner for breakfast and get a wonderful suprise: Beth called ahead and picked up my tab for breakfast. With a smile on my face, I mount up and start pedaling with Glasgow in mind...currently a little over a hundred miles away. I plug along soon crossing into the Fort Peck Indian Reservation, but as the day wears on the wind is unrelenting against me and I decide to abandon Glasgow for tomorrow and stay at Wolf Point. Of course my first destination after scouting the local hotels and campgrounds: the brewery.
September 24: In Culbertson, I settle on dinner before camp set up in the town park as it is still light outside. It's the homecoming game and the junior high school game just finished so the place is packed. I order my pizza and turn to find no available seats. A nice family of three (the fourth, their daughter is at the field still) offers me a seat at their table. I have a lovely meal with Larry, Beth, and their son, Christian, local farmers and members of the town community. They invite me to the main event of the evening, the varsity high school game and I say perhaps. After dinner, we say our goodbyes, and as I'm leaving another table invites me to come over and chat. These three, around my age (low to mid thirties), are Indian Health Service workers. We get to taking and I find that I have quite a few things in common with the doctor, Heather (both lived in Park Slope area at one time, vegetarian, theater background). They give me some info about the area I'm going to pass through and recommend the brewery in Wolf Point to me. as were leaving, we have someone rake some photos of us and I give them each a flyer. I say goodbye and go to the park and set up camp, writing and making phone calls before heading to the field to catch the second half of the game. It's an enjoyable and relaxing sight, if at times comical to see such small bodies playing football (ice become so used to professional football, hulking masses bashing like freight trains across the field). The home team wins and the crowd leaves joyful and laughing.
September 24: We wake up later than expected...a little too much fun last night, and load up the bikes. Sam is going to rode to the Montana border with me and then return to get ready for his 7:09 pm train. We reach the border, snap some pictures and say our goodbyes. it's so hard to let Sam go when we're so close: less than 900 miles to go, but I know he's got to take care of business. I continue on, truly alone the next twenty miles to Culbertson, MT.
September 23: During the afternoon, Mariel took us to the North Dakota Badlands by car. We got to cross the Missouri River, which was awesome because I had bee sad I wasn't going to get the chance. The Badlands are amazing, a weathered beauty that is grooved into the memory. The overcast skies only add to the gray, brown and ruddy pigments creating a stark timelessness sense of earth. Going to the Badlands we give up getting to see buffalo, which is in the other direction, but an unexpected bonus lay in wait. as we came over the rise there on the yellow plains ahead was a herd of free roaming bison.
September 23: It's rodeo time! We go to the civic center and watch as the riders try to hold on for their eight seconds as the 1500+ pound bulls attempt to buck off a slightly snug rope secured around their flanks. it was a fun watch with Sam and Mariel periodically turning to ask me if I still want to ride. My answer never changes, but unfortunately it's not in the cards. Because this is a professional competition, I can't ride. too much liability, although I got a raincheck for Las Vegas if I can get there around Halloween for the PBR Championships. I don't know if I'll make it in time. after the rodeo, we go to the after party at J Dub's. Great time hanging with riders and locals. As we leav, I meet a rider whose participating in an exhibition tomorrow and offers me a slot. unfortunately, I have to decline having used up all mine and San's down time in the last two days. :(
Friday, October 1, 2010
September 22: We took Mariel out to dinner to thank her before going to comedy night at a great bar called J Dub's. We got there late but caught the last comedian. Pretty funny. There's a rodeo in town and Mariel persuades us to stay another night. it wasn't too hard as I really want to ride a bull. She says she'll work on it and makes a few calls.
September 22: Stayed in Williston, as Sam figured out what to do. it's looking like a two day trip on Amtrak with a stop over in Chicago is going to be the most affordable. I spend some of the day trying to convince Sam to keep going, and the rest in prep work: laundry, email, Warm Showers, plotting, working out, etc. I also tuned up my bike, cleaning the breaks and fixing my rear fender.
September 21: Really bad news! Due to a bank/airline mess-up, Sam doesn't have enough money to keep going. we're cutting the day short and just going to Williston instead of on to Montana. I called Haley to see if she could find us a place to stay and she hunted down a bunch of numbers. We got into town and went to the Chinese Buffet, Sam's favorite, and ate while we kept our fingers crossed for a place to stay. one of the numbers Haley gave us, a woman named Mariel was a possibility. Mariel called back as we were finishing dinner with an answer of yes and her address.
Thursday, September 30, 2010
September 20: A lost battle today. Starting late, we were set upon by gusty headwinds, gnawing chill, needle spray showers, and deep gray hills. added to this the fact that I had had so little calories in the last 24 hours was all it took to not make it to Williston. We had to settle for permission to camp in a small town park in Ray, ND. Thanks to icing on the cake, state troopers telling us we couldn't ride on the small paved shoulder because it was freaking out the truckers and had too ride the last ten miles to ray on a gravel track in the dark. Finally getting to Ray, I forged out in three egg sandwiches at a roadside Ice cream shop called Snow White. We ate and pedaled throughout the dark searching for the school house we were to camp behind. I pitched my tent cursing frequently as gusts of wind constantly shifted my tent and ground cloth. We said goodnight and I passed out to the lullaby of the angry North Dakota winds.
September 20: Woke up early to pouring rain, broke down camp quickly, but we had to wait under a picnic shelter to dry off the tents. It took forever and all the while I'm starving! Finally, we get them dry enough to pack and go to breakfast. Unfortunately, the cafe we were recommended had move to the lunch menu. All I could get was a skimpy veggie burger (actually the only one I'd found in a thousand miles) and fried cauliflower. after we went to the library to try to find a place to stay in Williston. I put out a call to everyone from Couch Surfer and a girl named Haley called back and said although she was in Hawaii, she'd find is a place and she did. With at least that, we set off finally in the afternoon. (Not a good start.)
September 19: We went back to the first bar and grabbed another couple of pitchers. We got to meet and hang out with a lot of people our age who were in the area because of the oil boom that had been going on for the last fee years. tons if money but a crisis in housing, the boom extended into Poplar, MT with the nexus being Williston, ND, right where we were aiming for the next day. Good luck trying to find a place to crash and watch out for all the trucks on the road was the general sentiment expressed by everyone. They invited us to another bar, loading our bikes in a pickup and off we went. Jesse, a structural engineer fresh out if college and Colorado who was there for the work bought us a pitcher. We closed the bar down, which in North Dakota means only 1am, and Jessie dropped us and the bikes off at the town campgrounds.
September 19: Left Minot and rocked the fifty mile trip to Stanley, ND: fifty miles in about four hours with full gear! it was a great ride. Chilly but no wind with rolling hills and a beautiful fall landscape. got to Stanley and had to hunt down food. We found the campgrounds on the way to this bar that still had there grill going. Sam got a steak while I got some potato salad and half of a pitcher of beer. We left to try to find more food. The next bar had pizza but if course as the nasty bartender rudely barked out, all of it had meat on it. Sam grabbed one and a beer, while I jumped on the bike to find something I could eat. I had to settle for a protein bar and a bag of pretzels at the gas station off the highway.
September 19: Tracy tried Sam's back tire while he told us stories of his Time on the Air Force Recumbent Bike Team. He let me ride his recumbent, a Ice Trice, and I may be in love with a new style of bike for long distance riding (such a comfortable ride). With the tire fixed, Sam apologized for not being able to stay and we loaded up, said our goodbyes, and headed out of Tracy's by 3pm.
September 19: Woke up to a nice hot shower and bike maintenance. Tracy look over Sam's rear tire, while I lubed my chain and checked everything. Beside loose spokes, Sam's real problem was that his rear tire had warn itself out. Tracy offered to drive us to the bike shop when it opened at noon. We had a phenomenal breakfast of eggs, hash browns, melon, , fresh baked croissant, cereal, and Wisconsin cheese curds, while we hung out and got to know tracy's wife and four wonderful children. After eating, we hopped into the pickup and went to the bike shop to get Sam a new tire.
September 18: Pounded our way Northwest to Minot. it was chilly but a lot warmer than yesterday. The wind wasn't in our favor and Sam began having rear tire issues again. The flatlands gave way to beautiful rolling hills and rises across the landscape. We got into the city under darkness, coming to our Warm Showers host, Tracy's, split level home before nine. Tracy got us settled in the mostly finished basement: each a room with a bed, wager/drier, hit shower, and a fridge full of beer! Even better Tracy's wife made us an amazing stew. She made a veggie batch just for me. Soooooo good! It's been hard getting good healthy eats since leaving Illinois. Tracy went to a wine tasting next door, and we settled in. I got Sam to stay up long enough to do a load of laundry before, exhausted, Sam the Man passed out. Drank some beer, plotted and wrote letters until Tracy got home . We talked for a little while about politics and the world, and idioms out that Boulder, CO, a city I love, was burning. Tracy invited us to stay a day and I told him I'd mention it to Sam.
Saturday, September 18, 2010
September 16th: Decided to stay in Harvey, ND because of thunderstorm warning, ten miles less then proposed stop point for the day. Came in to town supermarket to fund a party. got fed for free and met a lot of great people. They warned us of a freeze over tomorrow. We might have to stay an additional day.
Wednesday, September 15, 2010
September 15: Met a really cool gentleman by the name of Les Oddlen outside the Post Office. Started talking about the trip and he told us he admired us. We parted company, and I went to the sports store for another pair of wool socks, while Sam was marking a waypoint. When I got out of the store Sam was getting interviewed by the Jamestown Sun. Apparently, Les went to the paper and told them about us. Plus he found Sam and donated $20 to the trip. After we got done with the reporter (he interviewed me too), Les made a final appearance. From out of his pockets he withdrew two ziplock bags filled with fresh cinnamon dried apple crisps. He also gave us a North Dakota commemorative quarter, apologizing for only having one. I let Sam keep it for Shani. We waved fondly to Les as he drove away and began the days journey. All be it super late today, but what a great guy!
September 14: If you ever get the chance, stop in Ellendale, ND. It's a a nice little town and the first town you hit after South Dakota. There's a steakhouse called Fireside that has a very vegetarian friendly salad bar, and all the food is made with fresh ingredients. Even better is the Ellendale Opera House. Built in 1904, the venue hosted Army regiments and passing dignitaries before falling into obscurity and disrepair. Recently, thanks to lobbying and petitioning, the restoration board has received a sizable amount in grants from rotors including the historic society to bring the opera house back to it's former glory. Linda, one of the board members, who we had the good fortune to run into gave us a tour of the building. Such an amazing space full of potential. We talked a little shop after I told her about what I do in Brooklyn and at Irondale. She offered me a job citing the low cost of living in North Dakota as am advantage. I jokingly asked if there was a college in town so I could go back to teaching English too. She replied that there used to be a university but now it's hydra bible college. I crossed my fingers and said I'd consider the offer.
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
September 14: If you ever get the chance, stop in Ellendale, ND. It's a a nice little town and the first one you hit after South Dakota. There's a steakhouse called Fireside that has a very vegetarian friendly salad bar and all the food is from fresh ingredients. Even better still is the Ellendale Opera House. Built in 1904, the magnificent building hosted many an army regiment and or passing line of dignitaries before falling into obscurity and disrepair. They recently lobbyist and petioles for about two million in grants from donors and the historic society to restore the building. We met Linda who is on the restoration board and she gave us a tour. Such a beautiful space with so much potential. I told her about what I do in Brooklyn and about Irondale. She offered me a job, citing the cheaper cost if living out here. I crossed my fingers and said I'd think about it.
Saturday, September 11, 2010
September 8: We arrived, sopping, cold and soggy, but safely at are Wa Showers host's apartment. His name is Travis and he is an avid tourer. At 29, he also is about halfway between Sam and I in age, which is nice. He helped us settle in our bikes down in the basement and bring all our gear up to his third floor apartment. We stow all the wet stuff in the tub and change out of our wet spongewear clothing. Sam and I decided that we need to slim down and prep more for the Northwestern Rockies plus the fact that at this moment, I have a barely functioning tent, so we decide to take tomorrow off.
September 8: A nice guy and fellow biker named Dan offered us a dry spot to fix the flat but we thought we went to the wrong house, so we left and I started changing it under a bank drive through. Dan found us, approaching with a standing pump. He gave us some good advice as for the lay of the land. Where shops were and a less congested way to get where we need to be.
Wednesday, September 8, 2010
We made it to Round Lake, Minnesota last night only to find out that the campgrounds have new owners who only let people with yearly passes camp there. Over dinner, I called the county sheriff and we got permission to stay at the town park. He said no problem and to boot the man who is in charge of the park upkeep, Bruce, unlocked the bathrooms and turned on the power for is so we had electricity.
Tuesday, September 7, 2010
Flat number seven. Poor Sam has not had a lucky week with his back tire. Why oh why do you dislike us Gods of Iowa? All your denizens we meet seem to really like us, and we are trying to leave the state as soon as we can. Fifteen more miles and you wouldn't have to see me again until next July. Heck, you may never have to see Sam again. Really not cool Iowa.
September 6th: Lazy day. Honestly, we didn't do much today at all, which was kind of glorious. We stayed in the room most of the day doing our own thing. Sam drew and made some phone calls, while I sent pictures, went through gear, plotted, read, and wrote. We watch a movie. Again, glorious. It seems like it's been a long time since we've been able to just do that.
September 5th: Due to the holiday, the bike shop is closed on Monday. This means that we're spending a whole day in Spencer. After dinner, I biked ahead to the motel to check in. There I met Ruth, the manager, who I think is the nicest person I have ever met. I'm serious. she was incredibly helpful and accommodating.
September 5th: It just doesn't end for us in Iowa! We were making great time to our next destination Spencer when Sam began noticing a deterioration in the balance and stability of his back tire. Upon examination, he found that a substantial number of spokes on the replacement rim were loose and warped. Continuing on, we made it about 14 miles from Spencer before it became so bad that Sam had to disengage the rear brake for the bike to move. I told Sam that we should hitch him a ride into town but Sam wanted to walk out of principle (we have a difference of opinion on this one. I felt that if his bike was broke that gives him a valid reason to catch a ride the last miles of the day to fix it. Sam felt that every mike on the trip has to be done under his own locomotion). Time and the now dwindling day time led Sam to coast and finally pedal the bike in with me bringing up the rear. Luckily, we made it just into town when the bike became completely unrideable. Sam pushed it the last mile in while I scouted ahead for the bike shop and all you can eat buffets.
Sunday, September 5, 2010
September 5th: We got a little reprieve on our Iowa blues. After patching the Bob flat, we began our exit route out of Rolfe when looking to my right I spied with my little eye a huge rocking horse. We had to investigate, so after dismounting, we walked over to it. There we met Dan, who along with his brother, Reg, are the founders and creators of Bud Barn. What is Bud Barn? Just one of the craziest guy handouts/Budweiser homages you'll find anywhere in the Union. Besides the horse, which is the second largest in the world and the largest working one, the property is adorned with several mammoth sculptures and structures, all built by Dan and his brother. Really amazing stuff.
So we finally got a little squeeze on the trip. The bar we camped behind last night was the spot. everyone was very nice but what's the saying, mornings free? At the end of the night, we got way over charged and yes, we were drinking on the super cheap. Sucks but you live, you learn, and you got to keep loving. Still we're ready to get the hell out of Iowa.
Saturday, September 4, 2010
We got to ride Three Rovers Trail today. a beautiful 32 mile ex-rail line that's been converted into a bike/horse/hike trail. Great except when you stopped and got swarmed upon. The name was Three Rovers but more appropriately it should be three rivers, fifteen steams, seven bogs, three marshes, and a million Mosquitos and gnats. Amazing ride though.
So yeah, we didn't get very far yesterday in our adventure. Something great thar happened though is that we landed in Latimer, ia at a great bar/restaurant called Mom's Place. Sam finally got his steak he'd been craving, while I threw back a whiskey or two. We had received permission from the mayor of town to setup camp in the town park, but as we were talking to the bartender Landon, he offered us his grandfather's recently vacated home for the night. We jumped at the offer, and stuck around Mom's meeting and talking to a gaggle of the town residents. A great ending to a windy wall of a day.
Friday, September 3, 2010
The people of Iowa have been wonderful. The land itself though has been less gracious. Some things to know about Iowa: it's not flat...at all. Miles after miles of rolling hills twisting for hundreds of miles. Also, storms sweep in quick and fierce. Lastly, at only 7% forestation, there's very little cover from the wind, and it is very windy here.
If everyone can give a moment of silence in their day to day. A friend of mine Bob Bowen, was hit by a truck last Thursday in a hit and run. After fighting for his life Bob past on Monday. Besides being one if the nicest people you could meet, Bob was a talented and accomplished standup bassist. He is survived by his two children. They still have not caught the driver, so if anyone can provide helpful information about the accident, please do so.
Thursday, September 2, 2010
Wednesday, September 1, 2010
Today was a day of defeat. We started both sluggish with low moral for me and indifferent moral for Sam. Road problems for Sam and a sore ass for me just exasperated it. The rim was the final straw for the day. We decided to call it an early one today, so we could settle in and regroup before the heavy rains and thunderstorms set in for the night.
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Saturday, August 28, 2010
We get to Tiger's and here is this 75 year old biker God standing before us still nimble, and fit. Seriously, Carol told us that Tiger still bikes over 50 miles a day and runs at night. Tiger, whose wife's name is Jane, showed us around his collection of racing recumbent bikes and his shop. and yes, Tiger still races time trials in Illinois and Wisconsin and wins them. His shop is just filled with tools, bikes, and memories. Pictures of Tiger riding dotted the walls alongside other cyclists both tourers and racers. Getting down to business, Tiger sold us each a tube, knocking off a dollar each (road discount). The flat and added detour meant we didn't have a chance in he'll making it the last 18 miles for the day, so we asked Tiger for some sage like advice. The best advice he could give us was a little pull off near a North/South bound county highway. He also pointed out the one store, Casey's, in the Village of Dakota.
While I was changing my tire, Sam went to the house nearby for water. a few minutes later he came out with Carol and Mike Johnson, a very lovely couple, who advised not only gave us water and each a delicious apple, but also directed us to one Tire Johnson who apparently operated a bike shop from his home. Now very low on tubes from Sam's double flat yesterday and my single today, we were hoping this one didn't prove a goose chase like the shops in Belvidere.
Friday, August 27, 2010
So in search of a bike shop earlier today, we came into Belvidere, Illinois. An odd backwater to begin with, we initially hit gold with a great Mexican restaurant but the good fortune ended there as we went to look for the towns two bike shops. The first shop marker on the map led us to a mural of Belvidere Bikes, which probably went out of business in 1947. The second marker led us to a faded lime green ranch style house in a residential neighborhood. We asked the neighbor, an old deaf man, if he knew of a bike shop near by. He pointed to the house again, and yelled, "Shack. I seen someone go there one day and he fixed him." Well sure enough walking int the backyard, there was a tiny one room bungalow with bike company logos in the small three by three window. there also was a very clearly displayed Sorry. We're Closed sign as well. With nobody home we moved on from the "City of Murals" (I saw six murals) in hopes of a city that doesn't just dream of bicycles.
Thursday, August 26, 2010
Tuesday, August 24, 2010
Saturday, August 21, 2010
One real cool outcome from the rain is that I just met this German couple Michael and Connie from Germany who are riding motorcycles around the world. They've done Australia, Europe, South America, and are working their way around America now, aiming to finish in Vancouver. A very cool adventure to be sure.
Sad Michaelangelo. We've got a rain delay due to heavy rainfall, and just under sixty miles to my friend Nolan's house in Chicago. Poor Sam got flooded out and I had some leakage too. We're both fine though, but we definitely have some tent issues to address during our stop over. I'm disappointed that I won't make Chicago before 4pm like I wanted, but we'll get there soon. The rain stopped a little while ago, so now it's dry and pack time.
Hang over from yesterday: I passed through Town of Pines, one of the eeriest, most druidic, and downright coolest names for a town I've ever encountered. Sadly, the town didn't live up to the name. One motel and one gas station. Not even an over abundance of pines. Maybe they cut a lot of them down.
Friday, August 20, 2010
The little acts of kindness encountered as we go along never cease to amaze me. The latest just occurred about forty minutes ago at Trail Creek Liquors. I came in to inquire about the size of the next town over and if there was a place to buy beer, and not only did they give me a very healthy run down on what was available, the owner Scott walks me to the cooler, removes and hands me a 12 pack case of Coors Light. "On me," he says with a smile. Life is good today to be sure.
A little bit of a detour. One of the bolts to Sam's rear rack rattled itself out, so we made a pit stop at The Avenue Bicycle Station. The owner, Scott gave Sam the bolt he needed and let him borrow a standing pump for his tires. He also gave me a phat (yes I did say phat) sticker for my helmet. He also told me about this program, he does every Saturday called Open Stand. Anyone can come in and work with his tools on their bike. Scott's there the whole day to run tutorials for newbees.
So something about me that very few people know. I lost my faith in Christianity, specifically Catholicism. Now before that happened, as a little boy, I wanted to become a priest, and the college that I dreamed of going to was The University of Notre Dame. Obviously, that didn't quite work out for me, but as a consolation guess where I am now. It has to be one of the loveliest campuses I've ever been to.
Feeling wonderfully refreshed and invigorated after a long ride yesterday. Good food, beer and whiskey, a great night's sleep, a hot shower and fresh clothes. Yep, that's all it took. I'm hoping Sam's shower will do the same for him. He was not anywhere approaching sunshine this morning. My grumpy day was yesterday. You see we've got this rotation thing going and... ;)
Thursday, August 19, 2010
Wednesday, August 18, 2010
We are pretty much camped at the point where Ohio, Michigan and Indiana meet at a little campground called Lazy River. It's nice although a side effect of this place once being known as the Black Swamp (they still call it that but they drained most of the Marshes for cropland, very, very fertile area) is that it's moist and all the outside world has already been coated in a even early dew. I'm emailing photos, making notes and writing my big Sid before bed. Sleep well Brooklyn or not yet to all my Barland Hoppers.
Didn't make quite make it across the Indiana border today, but I can practically spit at it. What we did instead was find an all you could eat buffet that cost me ten bucks for both of us. Thankfully there was a salad bar with tons if fresh veggies so I was happy again today. Between that, finding a vegan eatery and grocer last night, the super veggie friendly Mexican place in Oberlin, and Lisa's great peepers juice and apple jelly, I've have been a very happy vegetarian this week. it more than makes up for having to suffer The Thirsty Pony.
Tuesday, August 17, 2010
Sandusky's redemption comes with the morning over the quest for breakfast. We decided to bypass Sandusky proper and I routed us to skirt the South edge of the city. Just when we lost hope of finding a real place to eat among the Burger Kings and car dealerships, we found Beraidi's Family Kitchen and the sweetest waitress you've ever met: a madam by the name of Beth.
Neither of us know what it is about the place, but after getting back from our scout and eating at the Pony, we were both drained and listless. The urge to work wasn't there, not that I could have done much because service in the town is awful and there's no wifi anywhere near us. I don't know if it was partly because Oberlin was so amazing, or what but I don't know Sandusky.
Neither of us know what it is about the place, but after getting back from our scout and eating at the Pony, we were both drained and listless. The urge to work wasn't there, not that I could have done much because phone service in the town is awful and there's no wifi anywhere near us. I don't know if it was partly because Oberlin was so amazing, or what but I don't know Sandusky.
In need of sustenance and finding little if any in downtown, we backtracked towards the hotel and settled ourselves on The Thirsty Pony (it was that or TGI Fridays). This had to be one of the most obscenely saturated displays of indoor neon I've ever seen. The place is a jammed in combination bar, restaurant , bowling alley, mini casino, OTB. I'm serious folks, slot machines next to the gumball machine displaying the kids menu. On the menu, we got meat, meat, meat charged at a premium. That's something I'm getting used to and new coming into the trip, but this place was just devoid of any redeemable quality. Overpriced drinks dry humping tacky flair and not even smiling while they're doing it.
We did a night scout of Sandusky, and, yeah...that's kind of it. The historic waterfront area is pretty sparse (I mean it is a Monday but...). Apparently, the place to be is at the chain restaurants on the strip mall wing of the city, route 250. The city sweats a combination of sleazy tourist trap strips lined with gimmick motels and that sort of vacant homogenized quick serve culture America more and more seems to be drowning in.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Sunday, August 15, 2010
Status update: we're staying at the mayor of Oberlin, Ken and his wife Lisa, two biking gurus in my book (and every biker in Brooklyn if you met them). Not only did they give us a place to crash, a very needed hot shower, great nibbles, swains advise, and lovely conversation, their friend Steve also toured us around Oberlin. I got to say today was a GREAT DAY!!
Saturday, August 14, 2010
There will come soft rains, well actually there will come rapid torrential downpours passing through to say hi. Well, each state welcomes us in it's own special way, Jersey brought sandwiches from cars, Pennsylvania brought rolling mountains (lots of them) and now Ohio gives us hide and seek rainstorms. Can't wait for the Dakotas! No...really.
Mobile Blogging from here.
Friday, August 13, 2010
Thursday, August 12, 2010
Closing Update from last night: Sam went home to draw early, but I stayed out to bike, explore, and photograph. This really is an amazing city with so much personality completely unique onto itself. I'm loving it, I could stay here another week if I wasn't so hungry to get back on the road. A little nightlife guide to the city real quick, Downtown is vacant at night unless there's some type of city event, but you can find some nice seedy dive bars lurking around. The Strip District has a definite scene but i passed by getting that trendy sort of goo feeling about it. Finally, The Southside is where the bar scene is at for sure. Take all the bars on 5th Avenue and all of the ones on Smith Street, and pack them all on to Fifth, Southside.
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
Sam and I treated ourselves earlier to a Pittsburgh delicacy, namely a sandwich made in the Iron City Style. You can get it any way you like, for Sam that meant going for the cheesesteak, while I opted for an egg and cheese. what makes it a hallmark Pittsburgh classic is that they pile tomatoes, coleslaw, and french fries on top., an odd combination until you try it. Yum! Shit's pretty tasty Brooklyn.
So, we ended the night stopping by one of the two best pizza shops in Pittsburg (it's a hotly contested title here) right before it was shutting down and got two pies for ten bucks, which after all the eight dollar pictures, ended the evening just lovely. The cost of living in this town is insanely low. Now, I'm resetting my packs for the next leg of the journey: the push to Chicago!
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
Monday, August 9, 2010
So Samboy and tried something new, only because circumstances presented the opportunity, we split up on two separate courses. I took route 22, the highway, monster climbs and drops, while Sam took the ghost road, cool as the name is, it's a longer more scenic route that cuts through the valley, and is much less hilly. we're to meet in blairsville, where I am now chillin' at this restirant drinking a beer and a Jameson on the rocks that cost me $4.50 (wow), while Sam is still six miles out. Damn you Bob!
Sunday, August 8, 2010
Beautiful scenic paths today but not as much progress as we hoped. Spirits got a little low by Ebensburg (not a fan of the town myself, not bike friendly: you go although way up the hill to the center of town, ride three level blocks only to go back down out of the town), but we rebounded by yelling at each other, drinking some beers, and eating some food. Still, don't go to Ebensburg on bike. Not fun.
So I've added two new animals to my roadkill seen. First, three days ago beaver, and now, porcupine. I decided to spare everyone photo documentation but I think sam has a beaver snap shot on one of his cameras. oh, and I just ran into a fly the weight of a quarter biking. The thing made an actual thud against my chest!
Saturday, August 7, 2010
Good morning! Carol and Sandy made us a great breakfast if free range eggs, raw milk, yogurt, toast, pepper jelly (yum!), fresh grapes, and coffee for Sam. Energized and ready to start our rude, we shall now depart to State College (city name), the bank, Post Office, Best Buy, and then to the western beyond.
sorry fir the tune out...we rode and rode this rolling road through Amish country on our way to the what we thought was a sizable town only to find a one road strip. we ate some pretty bad Italian food and discouraged, began making our way to the next town and the hopes of lodging. That's when Sandy and Carol found us on the road. They offered us a spot to pitch camp, filled us with beer and stories, and helped ease what almost turned out a dire day's ending.
Friday, August 6, 2010
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Cruising the PA bikeline. Today's opponent: Mother Wind. That lovely bitch keeps trying to blow our bikes down. Otherwise, rolling hills more frequent then mountains today, the sun burn out the rain, and the world is sticky with moisture. No longer mad just upset at the waste of time in creating work only to have it wiped away. Ahhhh!! The pains of the electronic age.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Nothing like starting the day with a few mountain ridges. The ride down though was amazing. Did you know you cam go 55 mph on a fully loaded bike? I do now. The bad news is we're ten miles out from the nearest diner and it's not in our direction. It looks like Tofurkey, a clementine and Gatorade for breakfast today!
Tuesday, August 3, 2010
Monday, August 2, 2010
Whoops about signing in at lunch! We're in PA and I just reach the summit of our first 1000+ mountain and what's there waiting for me a frickin' bar man! it's just so hard bike away from Brooklyn life. . Whew! 6 miles to camp. Just waiting for Sam to get up the mountain. (jeopardy theme song)
Mobile Blogging from here.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
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